How Far Can an LVL Beam Span Without Support?.Our goal is to provide you with information to help with your next or current building project. Additionally, we look at how to install an LVL beam. We explain how to determine beam size and also discuss their cost. In this article, we’ll identify what LVL beams are, their different sizes, how far they can span, and their different uses. Depending on its width, depth, and load parameters, an LVL beam can span up to 80-feet. ![]() The layers are heated, glued, and pressed together in different widths or thicknesses, and then cut to depths to meet various load requirements. After explaining what it was and the LVL beam span, I decided to give it a try, but I also wanted more information.Īn LVL or laminated veneer lumber beam is made up of thin layers of wood veneer similar to plywood. Such was a recent experience when I was looking for a beam for a renovation project. We are just south of Roanoke about 20 miles.Every time I wander through my local lumber store, I seem to encounter a new product, not that it’s all that new, just to my awareness or my location. We bought a farm from an estate that had sat vacant for several years and has taken a while to clean up. Can't wait to get some rock across the front also. Its been a total remodel and the addition will be it for a while I hope. That's why I've come for some expert advice. The inspector's office has really not been that hard to work with, just any bumps make it difficult and this is out of my league to provide documentation myself. Looking back I might should have submitted it with all trusses and left out the ridge beam. I am on a budget and trying to avoid paying for engineering.įrom the pictures I saw I couldn't tell how I would build it to support a ridge beam. I have the logs down just not milled out yet. I am sawing the lumber out of my own pine timbers and they are not sawn up yet. I will probably have to have some type connection for the rafters as well other than toe nailing. I can get 1/4 steel plating and lag bolts for the connections and changing to a 4x14 ridge beam shouldn't be an issue. I am open to suggestions or designs for support. Where are you located in VA? I am near Lynchburg/Danville area We could better help you with a true kingpost truss as there is historical data and in use structures to draw from in determining appropriate spans.īTW, You have a nice looking home and the porch with that stone fireplace will be too nice an addition not to have an authentic TF truss. ![]() Adding depth to a beam does a lot more than adding width or doubling up. It will look better and if you upped the size of your ridge beam to 4X14 I doubt the inspector would have an issue with the assembly. My recommendation is that if you want the look of a kingpost truss and don't wish to use LVL's, have a true kingpost truss built with appropriate posts and braces. Unfortunately for you, in a truss, connections are critical and we have no detail of your connection plans. By your drawings, your gable end is actually functioning as a truss to support the ridge beam from which your rafters will hang. He is unlikely to give any more on his margins.įrom a Timberframing perspective it would be built of larger timbers and there would likely be a detailed joinery drawing and braces. The Inspector feels that he is already giving up a degree of his safety margin by permitting you to use non-grade stamp, non-kiln dried lumber. What you are doing does not exactly fall within the scope of Timberframing or Prescriptive dimensional lumber framing. I can understand the building inspectors viewpoint. Also I live in Virginia if that helps with load calculation. Anything that is not cookie cutter they don't understand. I plan on stripping it also with either 2x4 or 1x4 to add extra for metal screws to hold. They also want to use 2圆 T&G instead of 1圆 T&G for ceiling. Inspector wants load chart to show 4x12x16 will hold the weight without ground support. I want to leave it open on the end, but don't want to mess up my curb appeal by mixing in LVL. Next issue, plan was to put 4x12 cross support on open gable end level with side girders and vertical support beam from cross beam to ridge beam without a vertical center post to ground for support. My span is 16' and fireplace framing will be offering some support on house end so actual distance will only be 14'. I planned to use 4x12 Ridge Beam, but inspector is not sure on span rating and wants to go with triple 2x12 or 2xLVL. ![]() One end will be tied into addition and the other end I want open. My patio is 16'x16', 4/12 pitch, 4x8 rafters 32"OC, 12" Overhang, 8x8 posts, 4x12 side girders. My question comes from building inspector on beam span. I am building the patio from SYP from my property, have a portable sawmill coming to mill it out. I am building a covered patio off of the back of a new addition on my house.
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